Why M&S Café Closures Matter for Dining Culture in Malta
Marks & Spencer’s decision to close 11 of its in-store cafés signals more than a shift in retail strategy—it marks the end of a cherished British tradition. These cafés were more than places to eat; they were spaces for connection, comfort, and pause, offering a slower, more communal dining experience that resonates deeply with Malta’s own food culture. The history of department store cafés, from their origins in 1935 to their role during wartime, reflects values of accessibility and resilience, similar to Malta’s enduring culinary traditions like pastizzi and rabbit stew. As fast-paced dining options like coffee chains dominate, the decline of these cafés highlights the importance of preserving spaces that encourage slow, meaningful dining. Malta’s vibrant food scene, with its family-run restaurants and farmers' markets, remains uniquely positioned to embrace these values, ensuring dining continues to be a ritual of connection and well-being. The closure of M&S cafés serves as a reminder to protect Malta’s culinary heritage, promoting moments of pause and celebration
The Quiet Farewell to a Culinary Tradition: What M&S Café Closures Teach Us About Dining and Lifestyle
When Marks & Spencer recently announced the closure of 11 of its in-store cafes, it marked more than just a shift in retail strategy. For generations, these cafés were more than places to grab a quick bite; they were sanctuaries of pause, connection, and comfort—a cherished ritual that spoke to the heart of British culture. While this transition might seem distant from Malta, it offers an opportunity to reflect on our own dining traditions, the importance of food as a social experience, and how we can sustain healthy habits amidst changing times.
The M&S café experience was simple yet profound. A pot of tea between errands, a toasted teacake shared with a loved one, or a hearty lunch after a successful shopping spree—it was a pause in a busy day. These cafes were democratic spaces where retirees, families, and shoppers of all ages could enjoy a moment of rest. In the era before high-speed coffee chains like Starbucks and Pret dominated urban landscapes, department store cafes offered something rare—a place to linger without rush or judgment.
This idea resonates deeply in Malta, where food is intrinsically tied to culture, community, and well-being. Here, dining isn’t just about sustenance; it’s about connection, tradition, and enjoying life at a slower pace. From the bustling village bakeries to seaside restaurants serving freshly caught fish, Malta’s food scene thrives on the principle of savoring moments. Yet, as convenience and speed increasingly define modern life, we must ask ourselves: are we losing the spaces that allow us to truly connect with our food, our community, and ourselves?
The history of department store cafes is one of resilience and accessibility. When Marks & Spencer opened its first Café Bars in 1935, the concept was radical: hot meals at affordable prices, catering to working-class families who sought a taste of restaurant dining without the hefty cost. During the Second World War, these cafes became lifelines, offering ration-free meals that provided comfort and normality during uncertain times. In Malta, this ethos of accessible dining is mirrored in the popularity of traditional food spots, where locals and visitors alike can enjoy dishes like rabbit stew or fresh pastizzi without breaking the bank.
Department store cafes weren’t just about food—they were about the experience. They were liminal spaces where shoppers could pause between errands and socialize over milky tea and comforting plates of cottage pie. This sense of slowing down and prioritizing human connection is something we can learn from as we continue to build Malta’s food and wellness culture. Dining should be more than a transactional act; it should be a ritual that nourishes both body and mind.
Over time, however, these cafes faded as the retail landscape evolved. Just as Malta has seen a rise in fast-casual dining chains and grab-and-go coffee shops, the UK saw its department store cafes replaced by slicker, faster options like Pret and Costa. While convenient, these newer models often sacrifice the warmth and unhurried atmosphere that make dining a truly restorative experience.
Malta’s food scene, however, remains uniquely positioned to preserve the soul of slow dining. Local eateries, farmers’ markets, and family-run restaurants continue to thrive, offering fresh, wholesome meals that encourage patrons to sit, savor, and connect. It’s here that Malta can take inspiration from the department store café tradition—not by replicating its format, but by embracing its values.
Even as department store cafes declined, their legacy lives on in places like Ikea, whose canteen-style dining remains a beloved part of its shopping experience. The same principle—offering good food as a moment of relief and reward—is a valuable lesson for Malta’s dining establishments. Whether it’s a post-hike meal in Dingli or a leisurely lunch overlooking the Azure Window ruins, food should be part of the experience, not an afterthought.
The closure of M&S cafes also highlights a broader cultural shift: the decline of spaces where people can simply sit, be present, and enjoy a meal without being hurried or sold to. In Malta, where the Mediterranean lifestyle promotes balance and longevity, this is a reminder to cherish the spaces that allow life to idle for a moment. Whether it’s a quiet café in Valletta or a table at a family-run trattoria in Gozo, these moments of pause are essential for both physical and mental health.
The loss of department store cafes feels personal because it represents an era when shopping wasn’t just about transactions—it was an outing, a chance to connect and recharge. In Malta, where food is celebrated as a cornerstone of culture and community, we have the opportunity to ensure that dining remains more than a convenience. By prioritizing spaces that encourage connection and well-being, we can ensure that the act of eating continues to be a ritual that nourishes not only the body but the soul.
So, as M&S shutters its cafes and repurposes the space for modern coffee shops and larger food halls, let us take this moment to appreciate the value of slow, communal dining. Let us protect Malta’s vibrant culinary traditions, ensuring that they remain a refuge from the fast-paced demands of modern life. Because in the end, food isn’t just fuel—it’s a celebration of life, connection, and health. And that’s something worth savoring.