Is Vegan Fine Dining Evolving? Meat Returns to the Menu

The Evolution of Vegan Dining: What the Return of Meat Means for Plant-Based Cuisine in Malta and Beyond

When Eleven Madison Park (EMP), once the world’s most renowned vegan fine-dining restaurant, announced last month that it would reintroduce meat and fish to its menu, it sent ripples through the culinary world. The move was particularly symbolic given that in 2021, Daniel Humm, the chef behind this three-Michelin-starred New York institution, made headlines for transitioning to an entirely plant-based menu. At the time, the decision was hailed as revolutionary—necessary even—for the restaurant industry. Fast forward to today, and EMP’s reintroduction of dishes like honey-lavender-glazed duck alongside a plant-based tasting menu has sparked a global conversation. Has the vegan movement reached its peak, or is it simply evolving into something more nuanced?

This shift resonates far beyond the US. Even in Malta, where the culinary scene is steeped in tradition yet increasingly experimental, the balance between plant-based and omnivorous dining continues to evolve. The question is: what does EMP’s decision mean for veganism, and how does it reflect broader trends in food, health, and sustainability?

The Struggle for Vegan Fine Dining

For Maltese food enthusiasts, this development may feel like part of a larger global pattern. The rise of vegan and plant-based dining, once a niche movement, has grown into a global phenomenon, spurred by initiatives like Veganuary. Yet, as EMP’s reversal suggests, the path for fully vegan fine-dining establishments hasn’t always been smooth. Even Humm’s earlier attempt to introduce a plant-based menu at Davies & Brook in London’s Claridge’s Hotel faced resistance, leading to a parting of ways.

What these cases reveal is a tension between culinary ideals and commercial realities. While consumer interest in veganism has grown, fully plant-based fine dining remains a challenging business model. The perception that vegan menus should be less expensive often doesn’t hold true in practice. High-quality vegetables, meticulous preparation, and innovative techniques often require as much—if not more—effort than traditional meat-based dishes. Additionally, the backlash against ultra-processed foods (UPFs), such as plant-based meat substitutes, has further complicated the narrative. Diners are increasingly drawn to dishes where vegetables are celebrated in their natural form, rather than as disguised replacements for meat.

Lessons for Malta’s Dining Scene

Here in Malta, where the culinary landscape is deeply rooted in Mediterranean traditions, there’s an inherent appreciation for plant-forward eating. Dishes like kapunata (a Maltese version of ratatouille) and kusksu bil-ful (broad bean soup with pasta) showcase the richness of vegetables. Yet, much like the global scene, the local dining culture is increasingly influenced by modern health trends and sustainability concerns.

Malta has seen a wave of new restaurants embracing plant-based cuisine, with some adopting a “mostly vegan” approach. For example, eateries experimenting with plant-led dining often draw on local produce, such as sun-ripened tomatoes, artichokes, zucchini, and fresh herbs, to create innovative yet accessible dishes. However, as EMP’s pivot highlights, even in a health-conscious market, the demand for flexibility remains strong. Offering both plant-based and meat options could be the key to long-term success for Maltese restaurateurs seeking to appeal to a broad audience.

The Health Angle: From Ethics to Longevity

Veganism was once primarily driven by animal welfare and environmental concerns, but the conversation has shifted. Increasingly, people are turning to plant-based diets for their health benefits. This evolution is mirrored in Malta, where the Mediterranean diet—long celebrated as one of the healthiest in the world—already emphasizes fresh vegetables, whole grains, nuts, and olive oil.

The shift toward plant-based eating for health is supported by experts like Tim Spector, who advocates for diversity in plant consumption as a means to improve gut health and longevity. His “30 plants a week” mantra encourages the inclusion of a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, and grains for better digestion and stronger immunity. For Maltese diners, this aligns naturally with the island’s traditional cuisine, which is rich in seasonal vegetables and legumes.

The Revival of “Better Meat”

While plant-based dining has gained traction, the global resurgence of “better meat” is another trend worth noting. Rather than abandoning meat altogether, many diners are choosing to consume it less frequently but with a focus on quality and sustainability. This approach resonates with Malta’s culinary traditions, where meat has historically been a valued, occasional indulgence rather than an everyday staple.

Local butchers and farmers are increasingly emphasizing sustainable practices, offering free-range poultry, grass-fed beef, and ethically sourced pork. As awareness around food sourcing grows, Maltese diners are becoming more selective, seeking out high-quality meat and seafood that align with their health and environmental values. For example, locally sourced rabbit—a key ingredient in traditional dishes like fenek stew—is celebrated as both sustainable and deeply rooted in Maltese culture.

Toward a More Balanced Approach

The message from top chefs worldwide, including those in Malta, seems to be clear: the future of dining isn’t about extremes. It’s about balance. Restaurants like Tendril in London, which describe their offerings as “mostly vegan,” are leading the way, proving that it’s possible to prioritize plants while offering flexibility. This approach allows diners to explore the health and environmental benefits of plant-based dishes without feeling restricted.

For Malta’s restaurant scene, this balanced perspective could pave the way forward. By combining the island’s rich culinary heritage with modern plant-forward techniques, Maltese chefs can create menus that are both innovative and deeply rooted in tradition. This could mean pairing fresh local seafood with vibrant vegetable-based accompaniments or offering entirely plant-based dishes alongside sustainably sourced meat options.

What’s Next for Veganism in Malta?

So, is veganism “over”? The answer is far more complex. If veganism means rigid, all-or-nothing dining, its moment of dominance may be waning. But if it represents a broader movement toward eating more plants, less meat, and prioritizing health and sustainability, then veganism is thriving. In Malta, where the Mediterranean diet already provides a strong foundation for plant-forward eating, the future looks bright for a more flexible, inclusive approach to dining.

For diners in Malta, the takeaway is simple: embrace variety. Whether you’re indulging in a vegetable-packed kusksu or savoring a perfectly cooked piece of local fish, the key is to prioritize quality, sustainability, and balance. As the global conversation around food continues to evolve, Malta’s culinary scene is perfectly poised to lead the way—celebrating both its traditions and its openness to change.

After all, in the end, dining is about more than what’s on the plate; it’s about how it makes you feel, both physically and mentally. And that’s a recipe for longevity that everyone can get behind.