Devon Delights: From Cream Teas to Thunder and Lightning

There’s More to Devon Cuisine Than Cream First: From ‘Squab’ to ‘Thunder and Lightning’

Growing up in the serene countryside of Devon, I had the privilege of exploring its quaint villages, charming farmsteads, and close-knit rural communities. These early experiences sparked a lifelong curiosity about the region’s food traditions—how dishes were prepared, the ingredients used, and their connection to daily life. In my later years, this interest evolved into research, focusing on the intricate relationship between Devon’s food culture and its growing appeal as a tourist destination.

The culinary heritage of Devon offers a fascinating lens through which to view the lifestyle and resilience of its people. Up until the 1960s, the food of rural Devon might seem modest to modern eyes, but it was wholesome, nourishing, and deeply rooted in the rhythms of nature. Take, for instance, Devonshire dumplings—apples wrapped in pastry and baked to perfection. These simple yet comforting treats were often paired with a generous dollop of clotted cream, a beloved staple of the region. Such dishes were a reflection of a time when food was seasonal, hearty, and designed to fuel the hard work demanded by rural life, particularly during the cold, damp winters.

One of Devon’s lesser-known delights, the “teddy cake,” was a firm favourite during these challenging months. Made from mashed potatoes, flour, sugar, suet, and dried fruit, it would be served fresh from the oven during teatime, bringing a sense of warmth and home to the table. Sundays, a time for family and rest, often featured a special roast dinner, followed by a treat like “frawsy of junket” (a traditional dessert made with milk set with rennet) or “thunder and lightning,” a heavenly combination of bread spread with clotted cream and drizzled with treacle.

Before the convenience of modern kitchen appliances, cooking in Devon relied on open hearths and weekly baking days. Bread ovens were fired up once a week, and the production of clotted cream was a laborious, three-day process. Fresh milk, left to stand overnight in cool dairies, was gently heated the next day to form a thick crust of cream, which was carefully skimmed off on the third day. This dedication to crafting high-quality ingredients reflects a deep respect for food that resonates with Malta’s own culinary traditions, where fresh, locally sourced ingredients are celebrated as the cornerstone of good health and vibrant flavours.

The connection between Devon’s culinary heritage and its landscape is a story of sustainability, community, and seasonality—values that resonate strongly with Malta’s food culture. Much like the Mediterranean diet, which champions fresh, seasonal produce, the traditional dishes of Devon were influenced by what was readily available and what the land could provide. This approach not only promoted health but also fostered a sense of connection to nature and the local environment, a concept that is gaining renewed importance in today’s health-conscious world.

As transportation improved in the 19th and 20th centuries, tourists began flocking to Devon’s picturesque countryside and coastal towns, drawn not only by the stunning landscapes but also by the promise of its unique culinary offerings. Devonshire cream teas, now a quintessential British experience, trace their origins to the humble “splits” (small yeast buns) served with clotted cream and jam or honey. These staples of rural life became a symbol of Devon’s hospitality and an early example of food tourism, much like Malta’s own pastizzi and ftira have become a must-try for visitors eager to experience authentic island flavours.

The tradition of harvest teas in Devon further highlights the communal spirit of rural life. These celebratory feasts, prepared by farmers’ wives and daughters, were a way to thank neighbours and workers for their help during the harvest. Ham sandwiches, homemade cakes, and cream-laden splits were packed into baskets and enjoyed together in the fields, underscoring the importance of sharing food as a way to build and strengthen community ties. It’s a sentiment that mirrors Malta’s own festas and food festivals, where shared meals and traditional dishes bring people together in celebration and gratitude.

Devon’s culinary reputation extended far beyond its borders. As early as the 18th century, Devonshire butter was being sold at Fortnum & Mason in London, while The Devonshire Dairy on Oxford Street became a beacon for high-quality butter and cream in the 1920s. Similarly, Malta’s local produce, such as its sun-ripened tomatoes, sea salt, and olive oil, has earned international acclaim for its superior quality and health benefits.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Devon’s culinary heritage is the array of recipes that were passed down through generations, often without being formally documented. One such example is the mysterious “squab pie,” described by Reverend John Skinner in his journals as a pie “four feet in circumference … composed of neck of mutton, apples and onions, and by no means a bad thing.” This dish, like many others, reflects the resourcefulness of rural cooks who made the most of what was available to them.

Devon’s food story is one of tradition, resilience, and a profound connection to the land. It’s a celebration of regional food heritage that continues to inspire and delight, much like Malta’s own culinary landscape. Both regions remind us of the importance of preserving and honouring our food traditions, not just as a way of connecting with our past, but as a means to ensure a healthier, more sustainable future. By embracing these values, we can all foster a deeper appreciation for the food we eat, the communities we share it with, and the landscapes that nurture it.