Chef’s Tips for Comfort Food Magic at Home in Malta

November 4, 2025 at 06:00 AM
The Independent

Chef Jemma Harrison shares her expertise in recreating restaurant-quality comfort food at home, blending tradition with modern techniques. Inspired by her Ashkenazi heritage and refined in London’s top kitchens, Harrison’s recipes offer soulful, elevated dishes that are approachable for home cooks in Malta. From crispy chicken schnitzel "kiev" with garlic butter to luxurious gnocchi in shellfish bisque, and crispy latkes paired with radicchio and anchovy mayo, her creations reflect a growing Maltese ethos of fresh ingredients, healthy indulgence, and cooking as self-care. These recipes demonstrate how simple ingredients and thoughtful preparation can transform everyday meals into culinary masterpieces, perfect for hosting or enjoying a quiet evening at home.

Bringing Restaurant-Level Comfort Food to Your Maltese Home: A Chef’s Guide

There’s something undeniably satisfying about comfort food – dishes that feel like a warm embrace, offering both nourishment and indulgence. For chef Jemma Harrison, comfort food is rooted in tradition, yet elevated by culinary artistry. Her creations, inspired by her Ashkenazi heritage and refined in some of London’s most celebrated kitchens, are approachable yet sophisticated. They remind us that the magic of restaurant-level meals can be recreated at home, with a little know-how and a lot of heart.

From crispy chicken schnitzel "kiev" bursting with garlic butter to gnocchi swimming in a luxurious tomato bisque, Harrison’s recipes are soulful, layered, and unapologetically delicious. These dishes, which blend timeless flavours with modern techniques, reflect an ethos that’s increasingly embraced in Malta: fresh ingredients, healthy indulgence, and cooking as an act of self-care.

Let’s dive into three of her recipes that bring restaurant-quality comfort food to your table.


Chicken Schnitzel ‘Kiev’

A Maltese kitchen staple that’s perfect for a cosy night in, this recipe is a celebration of fried chicken paired with the richness of garlic butter. It’s a dish that feels nostalgic yet refined, and it’s surprisingly simple to recreate at home. Pair it with a fresh gem lettuce salad and a squeeze of lemon for a healthy twist.

Serves: 2

Time: 1½ hours

Ingredients
For the brine:

  • 300ml water
  • Salt (3% of water weight, approx. 9g)
  • 1 white onion, sliced
  • 4 sprigs thyme
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 10 coriander seeds
  • 1 garlic bulb (halved) – keep one half whole, separate and peel the other

For the chicken:

  • 2 chicken supreme fillets (skin on, bone in)
  • Flour
  • 2 eggs
  • Splash of milk
  • Panko breadcrumbs
  • 20g Parmesan, finely grated
  • A few sprigs fresh thyme, picked
  • Salt
  • Vegetable oil, for frying

For the garlic butter:

  • 100g unsalted butter, softened
  • 10g parsley
  • Half a garlic bulb (peeled)
  • 1 lemon (zest and juice)
  • Salt
  • Black pepper

Method

  1. Prepare the brine: Bring water and salt to a simmer. Cool down with ice cubes, then add onion, thyme, coriander seeds, peppercorns, and the whole half of your garlic bulb. Let it infuse and fully cool.
  2. Flatten the chicken: Place the chicken supremes between greaseproof paper and gently bash to an even thickness.
  3. Brine the chicken: Refrigerate the chicken in the cooled brine for one hour to lock in flavour and juiciness.
  4. Make the garlic butter: Blitz blanched parsley, peeled garlic, softened butter, lemon zest, and juice until smooth and bright green. Season to taste.
  5. Heat the oil: Bring vegetable oil up to 180°C in a pot – use a thermometer for accuracy.
  6. Prepare the coating: Set up bowls for flour, whisked eggs (with milk), and panko breadcrumbs mixed with Parmesan, thyme, and salt.
  7. Coat the chicken: Remove chicken from the brine, pat dry, and coat in flour, egg mix, and panko. Press firmly for an even layer.
  8. Fry: Cook chicken until golden brown (6-8 minutes). Rest on paper towels or a wire rack.
  9. Serve: Top with a generous spoonful of garlic butter, letting it melt. Pair with a fresh salad and lemon wedge.

Gnocchi with Bisque, Tomatoes, and Crispy Potato Skins

This dish is a sensory experience – pillowy gnocchi, rich shellfish bisque, and sweet roasted tomatoes come together for a luxurious yet balanced plate that’s perfect for a special meal. For those in Malta seeking heart-healthy Mediterranean flavours, this recipe is a winner.

Serves: 2

Time: 1½ hours

Ingredients
For the gnocchi (homemade or shop-bought):

  • 500g floury potatoes (Maris Piper or Desiree)
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 100g plain flour (adjust as needed)
  • 30g Parmesan, finely grated (optional)
  • Salt

For the bisque:

  • Shells from prawns or langoustines (approx. 300g)
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 1 celery stick, diced
  • 1 small fennel bulb, diced
  • 1 shallot or onion, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 red chilli (optional)
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 100ml white wine
  • 1 tsp fennel seeds
  • 1 tsp coriander seeds
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 200g tinned chopped tomatoes
  • 300ml water
  • A splash of cream (optional)
  • Olive oil

For the roasted tomatoes:

  • Handful of Datterini tomatoes, halved
  • 2 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • Olive oil
  • Salt

To finish:

  • White crab meat (approx. 100g)
  • Crispy potato skins (from the baked gnocchi potatoes)
  • Chives or fennel fronds

Method

  1. Roast the tomatoes: Preheat the oven to 130°C. Roast halved tomatoes with garlic, thyme, olive oil, and salt for one hour.
  2. Bake the potatoes: Bake whole potatoes at 200°C until tender. Scoop out the flesh while hot, saving the skins.
  3. Prepare the dough: Mash hot potato flesh, then mix with egg yolk, Parmesan (optional), and flour. Shape into ropes and cut into gnocchi.
  4. Crisp the skins: Toss potato skins with olive oil and salt, then roast at 200°C until golden.
  5. Make the bisque: Sauté shellfish shells in olive oil, then add vegetables, garlic, and chilli. Stir in tomato paste, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns, then deglaze with white wine. Add tomatoes, thyme, and water, simmer for 40 minutes, strain, and reduce to a glossy finish.
  6. Cook gnocchi: Boil gnocchi in salted water until they float. Toss with oil to prevent sticking.
  7. Combine: Warm the bisque, fold in gnocchi, roasted tomatoes, and crab meat. Garnish with crispy potato skins and chives.

Latkes with Radicchio, Anchovy, and a Soft Egg

For fans of crispy potatoes, this recipe elevates the humble latke into a perfectly balanced dish. Bitter radicchio, creamy anchovy mayo, and a jammy-centred egg make this a sophisticated comfort food option that’s ideal for brunch or dinner in Malta’s mild climate.

Serves: 2

Time: 1 hour

Ingredients
For the latkes:

  • 3 medium potatoes, peeled
  • 1 white onion
  • 2 garlic cloves, grated
  • 1 egg
  • 100g unsalted butter
  • 2 sprigs thyme
  • 30g matzoh meal (or breadcrumbs)
  • Vegetable oil, for frying
  • Salt

For the anchovy mayo:

  • Mayonnaise (homemade or shop-bought)
  • Anchovy fillets
  • 1 garlic clove
  • Lemon juice
  • Salt
  • Smoked paprika

For the salad:

  • 1 small head radicchio, sliced
  • Chives, chopped
  • Pickled red onions
  • Your favourite sharp vinaigrette

To finish:

  • 2 soft-boiled eggs
  • Parmesan

Method

  1. Prepare the potatoes: Grate potatoes and onion, season lightly, and squeeze out moisture using a tea towel.
  2. Infuse the butter: Melt butter with garlic and thyme, then strain.
  3. Mix and shape: Combine the potato mixture with infused butter, egg, matzoh meal, and salt. Shape into rounds.
  4. Fry: Shallow fry latkes until golden.
  5. Make the mayo: Blend mayo with anchovy, garlic, lemon, and paprika for a tangy sauce.
  6. Build the salad: Toss radicchio, chives, and pickled onions with vinaigrette.
  7. Plate up: Serve latkes topped with mayo, a soft egg, and salad. Finish with grated Parmesan.

These recipes prove that restaurant-quality comfort food doesn’t require a professional kitchen. With fresh, simple ingredients and a bit of practice, you can transform everyday meals into culinary masterpieces. Whether you’re hosting friends or enjoying a quiet evening, these dishes bring flavour, warmth, and a healthy dose of indulgence to your Maltese table.