Borough Market Clash: What Malta’s Food Scene Can Learn
The recent incident at London’s Borough Market, where a food vlogger was asked to stop filming, highlights the growing tension between influencers and hospitality spaces. This debate is especially relevant for Malta’s culinary scene, which is deeply rooted in authenticity, history, and health-conscious dining. While social media can amplify Malta’s unique cuisine, there’s a risk of over-commercialization if aesthetics overshadow the cultural and nutritional value of food. The rise of influencer culture, fueled by hospitality’s own efforts to create Instagrammable experiences, has sparked concerns about the balance between promotion and disruption. Malta’s food industry can learn from Borough Market’s experience by establishing guidelines for respectful content creation that emphasize the Mediterranean diet’s health benefits and sustainability. As Malta continues to attract international attention, maintaining a focus on quality and community will be essential to preserving its culinary identity in the digital age.
Borough Market vs. The TikTokers: Hospitality’s Frankenstein Moment and Its Lessons for Malta’s Food Scene
In the age of social media, where food photography and video reviews dominate platforms like Instagram and TikTok, the relationship between restaurants and influencers has become both symbiotic and strained. This tension recently came to a head at London’s iconic Borough Market, sparking conversations that resonate well beyond its cobblestone paths—right into Malta’s burgeoning food and health-conscious dining culture. The incident raises questions about the delicate balance between promoting culinary experiences and protecting the integrity of hospitality spaces.
Last week, Borough Market, a haven for food lovers, found itself in the spotlight when food vlogger Gerry del Guercio, part of the Bite Twice duo, was asked to stop filming during a review of an apple and cinnamon crumble. The video, which shows a casual recording without professional equipment, reignited debates about whether influencers have overstayed their welcome in one of London’s most famous food markets, or whether the market’s policies are overstepping. According to Borough Market, filming for commercial purposes requires prior approval, and security can intervene if content creators lack the necessary permissions. On weekends—the busiest time for the market—filming is outright prohibited. With over 20 million visitors annually, the rules aim to manage safety and crowd control in narrow aisles bustling with hot oil and hungry patrons.
For Malta, a country whose culinary scene is deeply intertwined with history, health, and local produce, this debate is particularly relevant. Borough Market’s story is a cautionary tale for local markets, restaurants, and influencers alike. Malta’s vibrant farmers’ markets, artisanal food stalls, and restaurants emphasizing Mediterranean diets—praised for their contribution to longevity and well-being—are increasingly becoming hotspots for content creators. While influencers can help bring global attention to Malta’s unique cuisine, there’s a risk of losing the essence of what makes the local food culture special if the focus shifts solely to aesthetics over authenticity.
The rise of influencer culture in hospitality is no accident. Like Frankenstein’s monster, it was hospitality itself that nurtured this phenomenon. Restaurateurs designed Instagrammable dishes, curated interiors for picture-perfect angles, and welcomed content creators into their kitchens. The payoff? Viral posts that could transform a business overnight. Malta’s own restaurants have seen the benefits of this trend, with dishes like fresh lampuki pie, ftira, or octopus stew gaining fame through social media. However, the question remains: at what cost?
As the Borough Market incident shows, the influencer economy is becoming increasingly polarizing. Many food vendors feel exploited, claiming influencers extract value without contributing to the ecosystem. Others see them as necessary for publicity but frustrating in practice. This sentiment isn’t unique to Borough Market; restaurants and markets from New York to Paris have implemented stricter policies around filming, citing concerns about intrusive setups, glare from ring lights, and disruptions to the dining experience. Malta’s hospitality industry, with its focus on intimate, high-quality service, may face similar challenges as it grows in popularity among international visitors and content creators.
The debate also raises a philosophical question: who owns the meal? Once you’ve paid for your food, isn’t it yours to photograph, film, and critique? Restaurants and markets occupy a unique space—part private property, part public stage. They thrive on visibility yet struggle with the intrusion of constant documentation. Malta’s culinary spaces, from the bustling Marsaxlokk fish market to serene Gozo farm-to-table restaurants, must navigate this blurred line thoughtfully. As these spaces gain recognition for their contributions to health and wellness, the emphasis should remain on the food’s story and its connection to local producers, rather than becoming mere backdrops for viral videos.
While influencers have democratized food criticism—once reserved for elite journalists—they’ve also blurred the line between genuine recommendations and undisclosed advertisements. Trust becomes a pressing issue. Can a review be unbiased if the meal was comped? Traditional critics dine anonymously, with bills paid by their publication, ensuring fairness. Many influencers don’t have that luxury or choose to sidestep it. Malta’s food scene, rooted in authenticity and community, must tread carefully to avoid falling into the trap of over-commercialization.
For Malta, the lessons from Borough Market are clear. Social media and hospitality are now intertwined, and both can benefit from mutual respect. Restaurants should embrace the digital age without compromising their values, while influencers should prioritize responsible, respectful content creation. Perhaps the solution lies in a code of conduct—a set of unwritten rules that balance creativity with the dignity of dining spaces. For instance, local businesses might encourage influencers to focus on the health benefits and cultural significance of dishes rather than just their visual appeal. Highlighting the heart-healthy properties of olive oil, the nutrient-rich qualities of fresh seafood, or the sustainability of locally sourced vegetables could elevate content to align with Malta’s health-conscious identity.
Malta’s food scene is uniquely positioned to thrive in this new era. By celebrating the Mediterranean diet—recognized globally for its health benefits—and emphasizing quality over quantity, the nation can attract influencers while staying true to its roots. Smaller traders and markets, much like those in Borough Market, could benefit from viral content that showcases their offerings responsibly, ensuring they remain sustainable in the long term.
Ultimately, the Borough Market debate serves as a reminder that hospitality must evolve thoughtfully in the digital age. Whether you’re enjoying a plate of ravjul in Valletta or filming the preparation of a traditional ħobż biż-żejt, the focus should be on the shared experience of food—its ability to nourish both body and soul. Film responsibly, eat mindfully, and credit the people behind the plate. In Malta, where food is a celebration of life, culture, and health, that balance is not just desirable—it’s essential.